Buick adopted the popular 350 cu in (5.7 L) size with their final family of V8s. Although sharing the displacement of the Chevrolet Small-Block engine family, the Buicks were substantially different.
The Buick 350 V8 had a 3.80 in bore (like the 231) and retained the 3.85 in stroke of the 340. It was introduced in 1968 and produced through 1980. Its nickname is "Dauntless."
The major differences of the Buick 350 when compared to other GM V8's are deep skirt block construction, higher nickel-content cast iron, external oil pump, under square bore sizing, 3.0" crank main journals, and 6.5" connecting rods. It is an extremely rugged and durable engine, and some of the design characteristics of the Buick 350 are found in modern GM engines such as the 231 V6, and Series I, II, and III 3800 V6's.
Of all the GM 350-cubic-inch (5.7 L) engines, the Buick 350 has the longest stroke, which lends to making significantly more torque than any of the others. It also made the Buick 350 significantly wider - essentially the same width as the Buick big-blocks, which have the shortest stroke of the GM big-blocks. In fact, at a glance the Buick 350 is commonly mistaken for the 455 engine due to the oversized intake manifold atop the engine. The Buick 350 also shares an integrated aluminum timing cover as do most of the Buick small & big blocks which incorporates the oil pump mechanisms as well, leaving the oil filter exposed to oncoming air for added cooling.
Optional on the Skylark and standard on the Skylark Custom was a new 350 cubic inch V8 engine using a 2-barrel Rochester carburetor that produced 230 horsepower (170 kW) at 4400 rpm.
hey dude!
i can't tell if it's a transmission thing or what (the mechanic that worked on it last said he thought something was up with the transmission, but didn't go into any further detail) but when i was on the highway, first and second gear were fine. soon as i shifted into 3rd or 4th the throttle cut out, no power at all, not even if i dropped back down to 1st or 2nd. any ideas?
yeah i would definitely wanna get it fixed before february, if i move. big IF there, so hopefully in the next couple weeks i'll have more info about what's going on. happy new year man!
ok so question for ya. because my funds are so limited and i may not actually be able to pay to have my bike fixed depending on what the issue is, would there be any chance you could look at it BEFORE bringing it to your shop? i could come get you and drive you to and from wherever, i just don't see the point in you picking it up (not sure if this would cost me also) only to find out it's fubar-ed. if that's too much to ask, i apologise for being presumptuous, but let me know if that's a possibility at all. cheers.
Panther289