i know that i'm repeating a lot of sentiments that i've expressed in this here journal over the past year and change but the thought of riding monster, hollow waves is what has been filling my head since the beginning of this week.
for about the past several weeks, surf forecasters have been tracking a huge swell from the antarctic as it hit australia before moving northward to tahiti and then the pacific coast of the united states. good swell is both powerful and fragile as waves must travel thousands of miles before reaching my home breaks on the southern california coast. a rogue high pressure system or angular spreading decay could cause perfect waves to disintegrate into mush just a few hundred miles from california.
so far the forecasters have been dead on and so cal breaks have been seeing a progressive increase in size since this morning. the swell is due to peak late friday into early saturday with waves in the 10 foot range and the three magic words that make my heart feel like its pushing up into my throat, double over head.
this new swell, easily the biggest of the summer season, has reduced me to a blubbering, jittery mess. even as i sit here typing these words i can feel the hair on the back of my neck stand up and persperation condensing on my palms. if i still chewed my nails i would've reduced my fingers to bloody stumps long before lunch time. i had a conference call at the office this morning and couldn't provide a straight answer to even the most basic of questions because the thought of getting stand up barrels has infected my brain with a fever that can only be chilled by liberal application of salt water.
for those that don't surf, its hard to explain the stoke from riding waves. but what gets lost in all the gnarly bitchin tubular bro-speak is the absolute agony a surfer experiences when waiting for swell. knowing that there's good waves to be had when i'm stuck in my office is like being wrapped in a straight jacket that just gets tighter and tighter. i keep telling myself that the day i hit the breaks--saturday--is just a scant few days away but the beast inside me rages and throws shaking fits with his fingers gripped tightly around my ribs that imprison him.
with waves of any significant size and power, the risk/reward equation takes on a steeper slope. the obvious reward is to get the ride of a lifetime. the stoke from catching an epic wave is like combining all the orgasms you've had in your life and squeezing it into a 10 second package. in reality, in the quest for getting tubed there is the inherent risk of getting worked. and when waves start getting more than head high, its not if you'll get worked but when. and getting worked in this case is like being slammed against a brick wall, thrown in a giant washing machine during the spin cycle, and fighting like hell to get to the surface for a breath of air. thankfully, i'm in my best physical condition in years so i think i'm prepared to survive a pounding and keep coming back for more.
my insides feel like jello that hasn't had enough fridge time to solidify. i've been compulsively checking every surf website i can think of in anticipation of the building swell. deep sleep has been and will continue to be elusive. short of breath. i can't keep my leg from doing that annoying nervous shaking. repeatedly cracked knucles. lips licked till their cracked and raw. i feel like i'm about to break out in hives.
this must be love.
for about the past several weeks, surf forecasters have been tracking a huge swell from the antarctic as it hit australia before moving northward to tahiti and then the pacific coast of the united states. good swell is both powerful and fragile as waves must travel thousands of miles before reaching my home breaks on the southern california coast. a rogue high pressure system or angular spreading decay could cause perfect waves to disintegrate into mush just a few hundred miles from california.
so far the forecasters have been dead on and so cal breaks have been seeing a progressive increase in size since this morning. the swell is due to peak late friday into early saturday with waves in the 10 foot range and the three magic words that make my heart feel like its pushing up into my throat, double over head.
this new swell, easily the biggest of the summer season, has reduced me to a blubbering, jittery mess. even as i sit here typing these words i can feel the hair on the back of my neck stand up and persperation condensing on my palms. if i still chewed my nails i would've reduced my fingers to bloody stumps long before lunch time. i had a conference call at the office this morning and couldn't provide a straight answer to even the most basic of questions because the thought of getting stand up barrels has infected my brain with a fever that can only be chilled by liberal application of salt water.
for those that don't surf, its hard to explain the stoke from riding waves. but what gets lost in all the gnarly bitchin tubular bro-speak is the absolute agony a surfer experiences when waiting for swell. knowing that there's good waves to be had when i'm stuck in my office is like being wrapped in a straight jacket that just gets tighter and tighter. i keep telling myself that the day i hit the breaks--saturday--is just a scant few days away but the beast inside me rages and throws shaking fits with his fingers gripped tightly around my ribs that imprison him.
with waves of any significant size and power, the risk/reward equation takes on a steeper slope. the obvious reward is to get the ride of a lifetime. the stoke from catching an epic wave is like combining all the orgasms you've had in your life and squeezing it into a 10 second package. in reality, in the quest for getting tubed there is the inherent risk of getting worked. and when waves start getting more than head high, its not if you'll get worked but when. and getting worked in this case is like being slammed against a brick wall, thrown in a giant washing machine during the spin cycle, and fighting like hell to get to the surface for a breath of air. thankfully, i'm in my best physical condition in years so i think i'm prepared to survive a pounding and keep coming back for more.
my insides feel like jello that hasn't had enough fridge time to solidify. i've been compulsively checking every surf website i can think of in anticipation of the building swell. deep sleep has been and will continue to be elusive. short of breath. i can't keep my leg from doing that annoying nervous shaking. repeatedly cracked knucles. lips licked till their cracked and raw. i feel like i'm about to break out in hives.
this must be love.
VIEW 3 of 3 COMMENTS
as for being/or not being in production for porn, i guess i can't really say that i'm not at all involved in production because i am on set. i took a nap in my studio at school today and woke up from a ridiculous dream about working on set. as of late, i've come across some stuff that has questioned whether or not i am actually having sex in porn, and i just had to set the record straight. not that any of these people would even read my stupid journal. whatever. you know how it goes.
it is coming.. the weather changed as you have well documented.. that is why I am finally leaving my beloved Venice Beach. I fear she will not live beyond the next 1.5 to 2 years ahead.
good luck and enjoy the surf.