morning wood aside, i've never considered myself to be much of a morning person. so its pretty strange to think that i don't have much trouble with getting up at the crack of dawn to drive to the beach for an early morning sesh before rolling in to work during random mornings like this one. i guess the itch to ride waves transcends my surly AM persona.. although i did catch myself broadcasting a pretty mean stink eye to some mook who dropped in on me today.
despite placid waist-high sets at bay street the line up was pretty crowded. thankfully, the tides were in our favor so there were plenty of waves to go around. the seasonal change (if you could call it that when its still 80 degrees in the valley in october) has dropped the water temperature below what i consider comfortable so an investment in a wetsuit is just around the corner. out of all the bodies that were bobbing in the water this morning, i think there was only one other person that wasn't sporting a full suit.
i think one of the great things about surfing in the morning is the wildlife. in malibu i'll often see seals hanging out or playing just outside the breaks. i'd swear that i've seen the same seal repeatedly swimming inside the tube of some of the larger waves. seals can be a cause for concern because they're one of the prefered meals of sharks. to be honest getting eaten is so terrifying that i'd just rather not think about it. dolphins are pretty common too, some of them will swim over to almost within arms reach. this morning there were a bunch of pelicans that were dive bombing for their fish breakfasts. a pelican with its wings stretched out is a damn big bird and it makes a hell of a sound upon impact with the sea. if they're close enough, you'll hear the rush of air through its wings right before the splash.
i heard the coolest thing on npr the other day about a surfer in san clemente that found himself on the back of a whale. i think there's some logic in believing that the most inspiring, most amazing moments in life are those that follow being scared stupid. check it out.
despite placid waist-high sets at bay street the line up was pretty crowded. thankfully, the tides were in our favor so there were plenty of waves to go around. the seasonal change (if you could call it that when its still 80 degrees in the valley in october) has dropped the water temperature below what i consider comfortable so an investment in a wetsuit is just around the corner. out of all the bodies that were bobbing in the water this morning, i think there was only one other person that wasn't sporting a full suit.
i think one of the great things about surfing in the morning is the wildlife. in malibu i'll often see seals hanging out or playing just outside the breaks. i'd swear that i've seen the same seal repeatedly swimming inside the tube of some of the larger waves. seals can be a cause for concern because they're one of the prefered meals of sharks. to be honest getting eaten is so terrifying that i'd just rather not think about it. dolphins are pretty common too, some of them will swim over to almost within arms reach. this morning there were a bunch of pelicans that were dive bombing for their fish breakfasts. a pelican with its wings stretched out is a damn big bird and it makes a hell of a sound upon impact with the sea. if they're close enough, you'll hear the rush of air through its wings right before the splash.
i heard the coolest thing on npr the other day about a surfer in san clemente that found himself on the back of a whale. i think there's some logic in believing that the most inspiring, most amazing moments in life are those that follow being scared stupid. check it out.
VIEW 7 of 7 COMMENTS
ratgirl:
get tickets!! when's the exact date again?
esmee:
you're right, that should definitely be done. the stopping by and saying hello thing. 