It's time for a vacation!!!! Between work and school I am getting way too stressed out. Sometimes I feel like saying F*ck It All, selling all my stuff and moving to Hawaii and being a surf bum again. Life was so simple then......surf, eat, sleep, surf. Then again, I was piss poor then and really couldn't do much beyond surf, eat, and sleep. I'm at least going to take next semester off, as I'm getting burned out on school right now. I'm only one class from my Masters but I really need a break from school.
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thecowboy:
yea i checked out other islands, of course oahu. few friends lived in wailua and haleiwa. my older brother lived up pupukea. i loved maui, windmills and of course honolua..my roomate in hanalei is good pals with mark angel that killer shaper in haiku (not like there arent tons of shapers in haiku) but i found you cant beat hanalei. yea, cannons, tunnuels, bobos, kalihiwai (fuck that wave gets so sick) and the bay all around like pinetrees, waikokos, chicken wings, middles (looks like fuckin teahupoo sometimes!) all the rest of north shore insanity like hideaways on a good day, secret beach, and the south side like shipwrecks, acid drops, and of course, pakalas (unfucking-real) countless other breaks with about an eight of the croud of any other island (shhhhhh). man, im goin back this spring. i get to work at the estate right directly in front of cannons (waipuna), my boss an i paddle out when its good its a fuckin dream come true that fuckin wave drives me nuts all hollow and draining and makana right there. dammit ya got me all starry eyed..anyways sorry about the rant. just miss it all, but i get to ride the mountains here while i go to school..if kauai has big waves with less dudes, montana has big mountains with less dudes..but yea, i highly recommend spending as much time as possible in kauai..go to waimea and polihale west side..anyways im sorry to keep bullshittin so much i get excited you know?..keep in touch, yea?
thecowboy:
surfed mavs last week...15ft...man, youve got it pretty good!...ive always wanted to try big wave riding, just never got the chance with anyone...yea i hope you do go to kauai. heard its been firing. my buds said they were standing up in kalihiwai last week..which means cannons is going off too..shoots the whole n. shore is on fire im sure..wish i was there so fuckin bad..if you go, check out ke'e beach (end of the road)..if youre lucky the surf will be epic, but either way, its total hawaiian beauty..you got a buddy in hanalei, whats his name? i might know him. if youre in hanalei, ya gotta get the aloha roll at sushi and blues..and i know auntie died, so i dont know if tahiti nui is still there, but see it. there is not a better tiki bar in the world. oh the great nites ive had there..anyways, starry eyed as usual..lemme know how i goes, k?..a hui ho!