grayspike

When we commemorated Martin Luther Kings birthday in the United States I decided to visit Vienna over what was for us a long weekend. Thats Vienna, Austria, not Vienna, Virginia.

Low season air fare and hotel bargains made the haul attractive.

I enjoy Vienna. I like soaking up the citys culture from the Hapsburgs to Harry Lime. In fact thats the main contrivance I used as motivation.

Schiele exhibited at the Albertina, French Impressionists showed at the Leopold. The Leopold and Albertina are museums. My last time in town there was nothing worthwhile to view at the first, while the second was closed undergoing renovation.

The locals were a bit warmer this January. Ive noticed the Austrians demonstrate lassitude when it comes to being genial. A German acquaintance called them grumpy. Being from Hamburg he shouldve known.

Ive only visited Austria during winters. Perhaps in springs and summers they loosen up closer to some point of friendliness.

In recognition of maturity, mine, one night I gave beer swilling and familiar repasts a break for the artfully poured glass of wine and traditional dishes. Rather than seek the expected in some anywhere in the western world eatery, I chanced a meal more in line with Old Viennese.

That is someplace Freud, Schnitzler or even Frederic Morton mightve found succor in after the monarchy collapsed and just before the Anschluss. All the restaurant needed was a violin-plucking Magyar.

Seen from the sidewalks frigid night it looked inviting. Inside, the murk to light shift didnt hurt my eyes. The furniture was derived between Loos and Deco. Somber horseblanket patterns covered seat and banquette cushions.

Cigarette smoke threw me off for a second. Then I remembered it was the old normal. One of those conditions which formerly existed in the province of adult behavior. That was until our societys need to nanny started intruding into adult affairs. Now were all under threat of being treated with infantile condescension. Forget ever smoking in bars or restaurants again. Someday I expect our hectoring do-gooders to force wet nurse legislators to pass laws forbidding alcohol consumption such establishments.

God save us from people who want to improve our lives by limiting our enjoyment of life.

Hmmm. Someone thoughtfully placed the days newspapers near the glass-encased pastry selections.

My fellow diners had spaced themselves carefully. Close enough for their conversations to be heard, yet far enough removed so these wouldnt be easily understood.

Murmur, if you like.

The only clock I saw read 8.20. It would do so until repaired or rewound.

The restaurants best facet was its waiter. Im so tempted to write ober instead of waiter because this guy epitomized the strict servility and service the title confers. But I dont want English speakers to keep tripping over ober either. Thus waiter he remains.

Until I entered he was engrossed in Sudoku. He was got up in a serviceable black suit, sensible black shoes. I liked his attitude. So did he.

American pleasantry and familiarity from servers is a foreign concept throughout much of the world. He had no need to ingratiate himself and didnt bother.

My spoken German is passable, pleasing us both. As Ive learned, the best place to learn foreign languages is in bed (preferably with a native speaker of that language), while ordering food is the best time to practice it.

Actually it shouldve been too early for dinner. Patronage was sparse.

City hall was nearby. Walking a bit farther the university, then the Austrian Parliament. I imagined I sat among those unfortunates having been compelled to waste their Saturday working, who now wanted a quick bite or long drink before going home or going out.

If I were the type given to eyebrow raising, then the couple dining across from me ought have arced mine.

She wasnt stunning though athletic. Fresh-scrubbed, 20-something, focused. Her glossy brunette hair was so lank it reminded me of plumb lines. Dressed casually, light sweater, denims, ear studs and work watch, she had no intent to seduce. Nevertheless some women exude attraction despite attempts to suppress it.

He was older than me. Gray throughout his hair rendered him distinguished rather than dated. Whatever bag he wore weekdays to the office hung in his closet replaced by a thick pullover and the Austrian equivalent of Dockers.

Both were tall and stood straight.

I tried seeing them as colleagues in some ministry office. Or professor/student engaged in a thesis bull session. Better yet, some municipal suit doing right by his secretary after having made her sacrifice this off day, too.

All plausible certainly.

But conversation between them was too intense. Work seldom provokes her sort of laser-straight glares or their hammer-like verbal exchanges. I wish I couldve seen what went on across his face but he presented his back to me.

They reached an accommodation, a truce or resolution too soon for me. Their meal ended in the middle of mine.

Before leaving, she attended the ladies room. I was lucky. Of the two possible ways of getting there, she routed herself past my table. I shouldve made goo-goo eyes at her. However, at that moment she looked immune to goo-goo eyes.

Say, you ever notice how women can make bedroom eyes without making goo-goo eyes first?

Coming and going I appreciated how she walked. Style was given over to strutting. Of course. She likely skied.

He helped her into her coat without insinuating anything further. He didnt squeeze her shoulders or whisper something hopefully amusing in her ear. His touch lasted no longer than necessary.

The whole innocence of the matter intrigued me lightly.

After I finished the entre, the waiter inquired about dessert. Here, I mightve joked about already having nibbled on a sweet matter. Since I was there, and propriety the watchword in Vienna, I went one more inch native.

Pastry. With raisins. Topped by whipped crme. The frothy stuff doubtlessly beaten into a most delectable submission.