fractal

actually, i was living in africa at the times, and surf was introduce to me by a friend. i hated the see then. i couldn't see what it could do to me. some voodoo lady told me my goddess was Mamateya, the see, it made me laugh at first. Then i gradually came into it, fighting my fears of the water, and later on, i would just go to the beach everyday, even if it was only to look at the waves. We even did surf one night, under the moonlight. you couldn't see a thing, all you could do was imaging the wave as it was growing under you. and listening to it as the rumble was coming closer. then, in nearly complete darkness, it would take you and the board on a crazy, scary ride in the dark....i haven't done surf in ages, i live in a town 120 kms from the sea, and our sea doesn't have waves big enough....I really should sometimes go to Biarritz, in France, they have great waves there.
But since i also discovered motorbikes. It's kind of the same feeling: when you get the bike on the right apex, when the wind blows briskily down your neck, when the engine roars but waits your orders, it's.....like the track is a wave and there you're also only a small part of an equation, but you know when you've done it right

tlc, jimmyjoe

reminds me of when. you lay so still in the bathtub. that you can see the water rising and falling due to your heart beat. .water pulse. thats all i like about bathes.

jXx