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Back from Tunisia!
Many memories and stories to tell. I will certainly write this blog on several times that I will publish as and when it advanced. Especially since I have some pictures and videos to set bonus (but I must treat them in Picassa before).
I will also tell this trip and my impressions by theme rather than having a linear narrative.
The Tunisia over a little year after the revolution :
This trip was the fourth that I was doing in Tunisia. It was also the first since the revolution of last year ("events" as the Tunisian said).
On my last trip there in September 2010 (a few months before the revolution), I felt a tension and frustration among youth (persons under 25 years). Today, on my return, I must say that I still felt the tension and frustration, but this time on the side of people aged over 40 years. Why? Because, actually, Tunisians are wondering whether they have gained by the change by releasing Ben Ali.
There is also two developments that have a huge impact on the lives of Tunisians. First, the economy broke its mouth for a year, hence the economic difficulties in the daily work. On the other hand, inflation is quite noticeable since the revolution. Clearly, apart from water, all prices have increased. And when I say "everything except the water," it means that food has increased. Knowing that it was already difficult for a portion of the population to feed, today is even worse.
To give you an idea, here are some notable increases:
- For dinner, I pulled around before 15 TND (TND is for Tunisian Dinar; 1 euros = about 2 TND; for those who think in dollars, I'll let you check the exchange rate and do the calculation yourself !) and now it turns more around 20 TND and with a smaller amount on the plate.
- To make a train ride from Tunis to Sfax (the two main cities), I was paying about 12 (or 15, I don't remember exactly) TND; today is almost 18 TND.
From the perspective of the Western that I am, these prices are reasonable. But for Tunisians, it's just terrible to live with. As I was told one of them: "Today, we eat more dust than before."
To all this must be added the political ineffectiveness of the new system. This so-called troika. Clearly, the Islamists (winners of elections) have agreed to share power with two former opposition parties. But this doesn't work at all, in any case, it isn't very effective. And learning of democracy is long and difficult.
I have met people totally exasperated and tired of this fact. Some don't hesitate to openly regret Ben Ali. In themselves, these people don't regret Ben Ali, the politician dictator. But they regretted "the Ben Ali's time" where there was a semblance of order, authority, where the economy more or less worked, and where daily life was less difficult (although we are Okay, life was difficult).
During this stay, I witnessed some heated debates on the revolution and the current situation, and on the police action during the revolution (for example, when firing on ambulances and fire dpt during the protests in Tunis!!!).
Edit: Twice I thought this debate would degenerate into physical violence. This was particularly the case Thursday when there was a show on the first television channel in Tunisia. This show, a kind of political talk show, came back into the abuses of the police during the revolution. Images in support, we could realize full skids (and sometimes ridiculous side) of the police during demonstrations. An officer was on set and reacted to these images and, especially, the contradictions that he sent back the other people on this show. The debate that ensued, in the restaurant where I ate, pitted the supporters of an authoritarian regime where the police had every right to intervene, and those thinking that it had gone far beyond its rights (sovereign) to course of events.
Moreover, in the country, there are still areas of tension strong enough. During my stay, it wasn't advisable to go to Gafsa and its region. And on Saturday, there were there further riots following demonstrations. In short, much of the interior of the country (which is also part of the revolt) are still live and can explode at the slightest spark.
I come to tell me that this country has two lanes in front of him: a) is that a new revolt explodes quickly; b) is that the situation worsens and rot (which will make the bed of Islamists and Salafists). This isn't happy, and that's a shame for this lovely country and its wonderful citizens.
Tunis
Tunis is very symbolic of the tension prevailing in Tunisia.
Firstly, I must confess that my report is quite specific to Tunis. Indeed, I realized that I was still passing in Tunis but really without stopping. When I am in this city, I'm waiting for a train, bus, or plane. In short, on future trips to Tunisia, I'll spend more time in this city and its surroundings.
Now back to Tunis in 2012. I felt the tension ambient upon my arrival at the airport. Taxis were completely on edge. Then the train station, people were still there as formerly. I had learned was that the station was a huge cruising spot for young Tunisians. Today it is much less so (or hardly at all).
Then on my return from the islands of Kerkennah at the end of my trip so I could see that the situation was far from pacified. In the photos below, you can see the area where I have my habits. This area may be bounded by the railway station, the Place de Barcelona (node trams), the Embassy of France and the Cathedral (which you can see on my pictures) that mark the entrance to the medina, and the famous Avenue Bourguiba beginning of the embassy and go up the famous obelisk-shaped clock (this clock Tunisians nicknamed "Big Ben Ali!"). On this main avenue of the city what the main manifestations happened during the revolution. For two main reasons: firstly, it is the main avenue of the capital so it's a symbolic place, and secondly, the Ministry of Interior has one of its facades on this avenue.
When Thursday morning, I left my hotel (The Maison Dore; great place! This is from the balcony on the 4th floor of the hotel, I took my photos) to take a taxi and go at the airport, I saw that the city is still "under siege". So two sidewalks of the Embassy of France is surrounded by barbed wire. Faced with the Embassy of France in the middle of the Avenue Bourguiba, you had barbed wire, three army jeeps and a tank water cannon! Then, at various locations on the avenue, you had rows of barbed wire. These stored to be used to cut the avenue at events and thus to prevent the demonstrators to move from one point to another avenue. Finally, at the roundabout at the clock, you've got outright military weapon. And I can assure you that this is not a rubber bullets they wore, but outright military rifles! Hello atmosphere! Imagine the Champs Elyses or 5th Avenue with barbed wire, tanks and armed soldiers ... This is what the people currently living in Tunis ...
Tunis by night
The same view but two hours earlier. Center on the left, where there are green trees, this is the place of Barcelona. The railway station would be on the left of this photo.
At the back the cathedral. Front and behind the trees, we glimpse the Embassy of France. We see a guard posts at the street corner along the wall of the embassy.
On the left of this photo, we would have the entrance to the medina. And thus the beginning of the Avenue Bourguiba.
The Tunis tram. Think of the ball plugs if you want to sleep at the Maison Dore!!!
The Tunisian women
One of my questions are starting to see the situation were Tunisian women, now than the Islamists had taken a share of power.
As a reminder, Tunisia has always been taken as a model in Arab countries about the situation of women. Since independence, several laws have enabled Tunisian women has a special something as bad as their neighbors in the Maghreb (even if it's agreed that they remained under the domination of a father, a brother, or an husband, man's domination in fact).
On previous trips to Tunisia, and especially in cities (Tunis, Sfax), I had been marked by the relative freedom enjoyed by women living there. This freedom is expressed in dress and, in particular, in these hyper-Skinny jeans they wear.
(It always makes me think of this seller of Essaouira, in Morocco, who sold "stones to lose weight" and "stones grow" he sold the first to Western women, the second to Arab-Muslim women; I always found it very significant to our cultural differences).
There are frankly small "pepettes" (I don't know if in English there is an expression of this type), short of very dainty young ladies, even flashy. And it's always nice to see them.
The other form of freedom lay in a certain lightness in the relationship between unmarried young people (ie people under 25 years usually). The dredge was straightforward and could be initiated by women themselves clearly without disturbing other people (ie adults and "bearded"). I still remember this lovely lady, although a little young for me, who had teased me in the queue of the ticket office in Tunis ...
So I was wondering if the situation remained the same. And generally is the case. The only difference I would make would be on social relationships. The contact with perhaps less directly (or perhaps now more subtly).
Clothing, there are not too many changes. Admittedly, I had the impression of seeing more young women wearing veils but I think it's just a feeling. By against, among married women (ie more than 25-30 years), I sometimes feel that not wearing the veil is more of an exception.
A moment I wondered if there was a Tunisian SG. I'll get (if it isn't the case, I'll go and look for hopeful and, where appropriate, become propagandist!!!). But if there is none, I think it's a lack; Tunisian women are so wonderfully beautiful. When I saw some faces so beautiful and resplendent hidden under a veil, I found it very damaging. It's time to remove these veils.
Outside the cities, the situation has not changed at all from what I've seen. Of classic looks, veiled or not. And attitudes that do not express a particular form of oppression unsustainable.
I will speak later of women engaging in public debate and policy.
The islands of Kerkennah
So that was my fourth trip to Tunisia, and each of these trips, I go to the islands of Kerkennah. These islands (5 or 6 islands in the words of each other, in fact, the sixth is a big stone out of the water), 2 of which are populated, were highly protected from tourism development. If you know anything about Tunisia, Djerba or Hammamet think ... well Kerkennah islands are the perfect antithesis. In light of these islands, there is nothing. And that is why I love them! Well, when I say that there is nothing, I exaggerate. These islands have a history and we can see its different traces. The most visible being the fort built to protect them (first by the Spanish, then by the Arabs). This fort is built on the remains of a Roman city. I'll look in my archives of previous trips a few more detailed photos than those below.
Other "trace" history, a boat that would be that used by Bourguiba in his escape from Tunisia to Lybia before independence. Just as Hannibal had done centuries ago, the islands of Kerkennah it served as a refuge before returning in strength (although somewhat finished better than Bourguiba to Hannibal).
Finally, there is a small museum in El Abassia (a small village on the largest island). This museum focuses on local life and traditions. Have centered traditions of fishing, which was the main activity of these islands. I've never been in this museum - even if I feel like it. In fact, I used to "excuse" to always return to Kerkennah. I say "hey, this year I will go to the museum of El Abassia". And, of course, I'm not going, what gives me the excuse to return to Kerkennah to finally visit it!!!
Otherwise, these islands are perfect for relaxing, rest, and cut with the stressful life that characterizes so well the West.
From my hotel room, I had the right to three beautiful sunsets. Here they are in pictures.
The first
The second
The last one (the last day in Kerkennah )
Some landscapes ...
The unfortunate has had a curious accident ...
One of two new hotels on the island. From an architectural standpoint, it's a disaster ...
One of my favorite homes in Ouled Kacem (another small village in the islands). I thought it was a second home but it was not. This is the house of a fisherman who has his boat right in front of his house (in his garden one might say). His paradise after all!
The fort and the Roman ruins.
Feluccas, traditional fishing boat from the islands.
After the storm
Here one of the traditional ways of fishing. In the shallows around the island (there is diffcult to drown unless they are drunk!), Fishermen are planting palms online. Fish swim along these lines and arrive at the very end, in pounds which they can't get out (but they don't die like in fishing nets). Fishermen come next harvest their fish in these ponds.
The shower in my hotel room. Enough roots but ultimately effective.
Tunisian beautiful plants ... (nothing in common with my previous chapter on Tunisian women)
Still images taken on Kerkennah, photographed here are some plants here and there.
Their shapes and colors inspired me.
Women and me ... and other advanced psychic.
You may wonder what I find good in the islands where there is not much to do ... This is legitimate in itself.
To understand my attachment to Kerkennah must already understand my attachment to Tunisia and the Maghreb in general. Generally, you fall in love with someone. For my part, I fell in love with Maghreb during my first trip to Morocco (exactly 10 years ago).
There is also the story of my family. My father was a soldier for two years during the war in Algeria. From this traumatic ordeal, the result is a form of attraction and repulsion towards the Maghreb. On the one hand, it was terrible for him to go to war there. On the other hand, he remained committed to this country and its people. So I "bathed" in this atmosphere in my childhood.
Kerkennah now. These are islands that I knew through my work. In 2007, I was invited by the Ministry of Youth in Tunisia to lecture at the "fifth of university youth leaders" (the title alone, it gives a little ambience). For the story, my lecture was followed by another by a woman who was none other than the personal doctor of Ben Ali. Well, I'm the sociologist has a little "sintered" with her vision only hormonal teen ... In short, these universities were held in Kerkennah. Why? Because the secretary of state's youth then was from these islands. He therefore wished to live a little by the islands that came from all national and regional frameworks of youth, and a fifty educators.
Unfortunately during this stay, I had almost no contact with the local population, which frustrated me a lot. So I decided to come back some time later (January 2009).
During this second visit, I happened something which I was totally unprepared. I was walking on the side, near Ramla (the main town of Kerkennah), when all of a sudden I had a kind of awareness. I said, "now that I live there I would love to share it with someone." This little episode marked a watershed in my life and that's why I'm so attached to these islands.
I led a life far more solitary course, I am sociable but I would tend to define myself as a bear. A bear can be "an ill-licked bears" or "a teddy bear while tending". The fact is that during this visit, I began to realize that this life did not satisfy me fully. So I decided to change some things.
Three years later, the changes are minor but they are still moving forward.
This brings me to my relationships with women. In summary, I'd say it's a bit of a mess! I feel (but it's more an impression) that I fell in love with women who are either already with someone, or who want just about everything ... except me ...
So I have a lot of difficulties in my relationships and I embark in stories with no future. Over the past two years, my relationship with Crush Physio and Crush Habibi are completely reflect these difficulties.
Before my stay in Kerkennah, I began to realize that I "dsintoxiquais" gradually the two women (these women had "intoxicated" my heart and soul of a certain point of view; and I gradually removes this toxin). My trip to Kerkennah confirmed to me. Indeed, I am someone who tends to make films himself. In my fantasies, I sometimes saw in Kerkennah with Manon (Crush Physio) or Sabah (Crush Habibi). During my vacation, very quickly, I became aware of the unreality of these thoughts. In fact, I realized that these two women had no place at all on these islands. In any case, not with me ... I think this is another sign that I advance. Moreover, since I see many more delighting women. I don't think there are actually more but first, I didn't see them because I had a veil of illusion over my eyes.
I feel so much more ready to meet and open myself to someone new, and hopefully we can do a long way together ...
(By the way, I just remove Essence of my faves. In one of my previous blogs, I explained that she's very like Crush Kine, especially since she had cut her hair, and it was certainly the reason why I appreciated her so much).
Otherwise, the job I always leads to me (with my psychologist and my sophrologist), I addressed the issue a lot of my family and especially my mother. To summarize my family and my parents, I'm caught between a castrating-depressive mother and a resigned-submitted father. We have seen better!
I thought about it too during my stay in Kerkennah. One of the things I'm going to work is now under take any first degree and emotionally. I'll have to take some distance with this family atmosphere a bit heavy. In short, I'll have to think a little more to me.
It may sound selfish but as said, frankly, it's for my welfare. And if it allows me to advance in my other relationships (with women ... or rather a woman) is better as well!!
My sweet dream
This is the fourth time I go in Tunisia and on the islands of Kerkennah. By dint, I tell myself that I could buy a house there, it would be much easier than ever to go to the hotel ...
Well, during one of my walks on the islands (I am someone who loves to walk and explore the country as well), I came across this little house for sale. Frankly, I immediately fell in heart. I photographed it and I say, that before leaving, I will inquire about its price. Certainly, it is not very big, but it is facing the sea (just across a road and another small field to be on the beach) and has an indoor pool (which can be important when windy as I had during my stay!). With these elements, I thought the price between 200,000 and 250,000 TDN (between 100 and 130 000 euros).
On Monday night, so I asked two people to the restaurant where I ate if they knew the sellers of this house and especially its price. Luckily, Ali (his picture is below) knew the architect-seller of the home. So he offered me to visit her the next day.
Tuesday morning we started thus visiting the house with the architect who built it and who is responsible for the sale. The current owners are Tunisian and want to sell it before July.
This house and its swimming pool is located on a plot of 1 500m . The first good news is that the land between the sea goes with the lot. We must therefore add a second plot of 1 200m . Then the path separating the two areas will soon be tarred.
The house itself is quite small but there are two large bedrooms (with plenty of storage space) and each room has its own bathroom (shower and toilet). There is a cozy room Arabic, a dining room and a American kitchen (although large and well equipped, so that really feel like cooking) + a garage and the roof terrace of the house.
Well, the pool needs a lick of maintenance. We must replace the same protection in the bottom of the pool.
Advertised selling price of this lovely house and the land that goes with it: 310 000 TDN (or between 150 and 160 000 euros). Well, given the current economic situation of Tunisia and the willingness of owners to sell, there are ways to negotiate. But adding the additional costs and other bribes, I think we will arrive at the final 310 000 TDN.
Frankly, it's not too realistic for me to buy this house. This is the price of an apartment T3 in Rennes (the city where I live) and I can not already buy me one ... So unless I find 3 or 4 people crazy enough to engage in this project jointly with me and buy this house, I think this house will remain the order of my sweet dream
(For those interested, anyway, do not hesitate to contact me).
The ground in the face the house and sea views
The pool. There really maintenance work to do!!!
The view from the front door of the house.
Ali, through which offers course to be the guardian of the house (and those who would sign the papers! Stinks of ass this story!)
My best New Year's resolutions
I come now to take stock of five good resolutions I made at the beginning of the year. Indeed, this trip in Tunisia allowed me to achieve and in another experiment.
Resolution No. 1: change apartments. This is ongoing. I gave my notice before starting to go to Tunisia. I'm going to move by July 5. As I said above, I will not be able to buy the type of apartment that I liked, so I'll stay renter.
Resolution No. 2: to travel. So it's true!
Resolution No. 3: continue my work on myself and try to find a girlfriend. This is in progress, in any case work on myself! Honestly, I think I'm moving forward and that the lines are beginning to move in my head. To be continued.
Resolution No. 4: convince my brothers and sisters to make a collective gift for 50th wedding anniversary of our parents. It died on January 4! As I have said a little earlier, it's a bit of a mess in my family and my parents have a lot to in this situation. Today, one of my sisters was partly cut ties with them and does not engage in this type of project. I understand her.
Resolution No. 5: I continue to epilating but I grow a mustache. So I tried the mustache during the holidays. This has not been very successful. Especially because I have been betrayed by my pilous system! I suspected as much but I'm not all that grows at the same time and, especially, I have holes where nothing grows! So I shaved every Friday morning after my return to France. Well, I will ever attempt a little longer during the summer.
Me, my mouth and my mustache
As stated in the previous point, I made an attempt to let me grow a mustache. My idea is to let me push down along and mouth to go to the edges of the chin.
I did not shave for 10 days of my vacation.
Finally, as I thought a bit initially, my mustache was relatively well advanced. By cons, along my mouth and down towards the chin is less well spent. Either because it grew more slowly. Or simply because I have holes in my pilosity system. The result is not very conclusive as shown in the pictures below.
I will ever be attempted during the summer to try to densify my mustache. I will then see what happens.
But undeniably, I think I have a better mouth when I'm shaved and with short hair though. What do you think?
Before...
I am a real teenage girl adoring take pictures in the mirror of her bathroom!
After...
Not convincing at all ...
Miscellaneous
Sometimes raining in Tunisia. But they are usually showers. Here's one that fell on the sea front of my hotel.
During the evening there was a big storm that broke over the hotel.
I will never understand the mania for Tunisians to write on their bank notes! Certainly a way of appropriating money that slips of the fingers ...
Finally, here is the best photo I took in Tunisia.
I will not let you search long what it is: it's my finger! More precisely, my left index finger! I had to take this picture with the sun behind. So I did not see too that I took a picture! Fail of the day!