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  • FRIDAY DECEMBER 14 2007 12:00 PM

Eco-Friendly Clothing -- Not Quite There Yet.



Your clothing choices can impact the environment as much as your carbon emissions but is it possible to shop and dress in a completely green fashion? Clothing that's labeled "eco-friendly" can be just as misleading as packaged food labeled "organic." Most designers and clothing companies are not making it easy to cut through the crap. If you want to shop green, it's really about deciding what area you're most comfortable comprising.

For example Barney's now offers a "Have a Green Holiday Catalog," complete with pillows embroidered with statements like, "Green is Groovy" or "Save the Planet." The catalog promises "fabulously fair-trade fashion," "sensationally sustainable swag" and "orgasmic organic denim and cashmere." (I'm a little disappointed that they couldn’t pull off alliteration on that last one.) Nowhere on the catalog does it offer proof or information on how exactly their clothing is fair-trade or organic. It's not that I'm a complete skeptic but I'm sure there are loopholes. The New York Times reports that:

…the trend has advanced so quickly that it becomes difficult to evaluate the claims of products that say they are biodegradable, carbon neutral or made from sustainable materials. In recognition of rapidly expanding consumer interest, the Federal Trade Commission said on Monday that it will quickly re-evaluate its guides for green designations in marketing, last updated in 1998, to determine whether they need to be expanded.



The Times also points out that the Barney's catalog carries a ridiculous (my word, not theirs) canvas handbag worth $1,065 (add $310 for a gold, monogrammed recycling symbol.)

The canvas, the catalog says, is “100% recyclable.”



There will always be people with money to blow who will find a way to incorporate recycling, Darfur and orphans into fashion trends but for the rest of us who actually might want to be more conscientious about clothing - how do we discern?

People have been wearing hemp even before it was cool. (Will it ever be cool?) But consider what happens to materials like hemp or bamboo before they're turned into a ruffled dress.

Fabrics made from bamboo or hemp, for example, are promoted as having been raised without pesticides and also for growing much faster than cotton. But the downside is that bamboo or hemp fibers are naturally tough and are typically softened before being woven into fabric by using chemical treatments, which cause more pollution.



Soy, you say?

Naturally softer fabrics made from soy have a mild impact compared to cotton, according to environmental groups, but they are less durable, so clothes wear out faster and have to be replaced more often — which has an environmental cost of its own.



What about a pretty dress made from organic cotton? That's grown without pesticides!

But organic cotton is not always used in its pure state. The Department of Agriculture’s standards do not regulate textile production once cotton has been harvested, so as a fabric it may be chemically treated, or printed with toxic dyes, and still be labeled as organic.



Another stumbling block to being completely eco-friendly is that even clothes made from recycled plastics are usually gathered in the U.S., shipped to Japan to process, made in China and then sent back to the U.S. for distribution.

Oh! Foiled again! What's a tree-hugger to do?

You can head to Good Will or look for clothing lines that make trendy outfits out of leftover scraps or vintage clothes. And the ultimate sustainable act is repurposing what you already own. If you don't have a backyard, get a wooden clothing rack and let your stuff air dry to save energy. (There's nothing like a crisp, stiff, air-dried pair of jeans on a cold winter morning!)

The dry cleaning industry has made huge strides in eco-friendly practice. You don’t have to smell like a chemical plant when you wear your power suits anymore. Dry cleaners do not have to use "perc."

The EPA has classified perc (Perchloroethylene) - the solvent most commonly used in traditional dry cleaning - as a groundwater contaminant and a potential human health hazard.



Lots of dry cleaners have switched to "Green Earth" dry cleaning.

GreenEarth method uses a silicone-based solvent that breaks down into sand, water and carbon dioxide without that telltale chemical odor.



Just in case you were heading out the door with your fine linens to find your neighborhood eco-friendly dry cleaner, hang on. NPR reported:

… preliminary studies suggest D-5, the silicone-based solvent used in the process, causes cancer in rats and may also be toxic to the liver. NPR's Allison Aubrey reports.



To confuse you even more The Silicones Environmental Health and Safety Council issued a statement arguing that D5 is safe for "its intended uses, including dry cleaning."

Now, if you want to be a do-gooder but don’t have environmentally friendly stores in your area and you're forced to live like a mall rat amongst The Gap, Old Navy and the like -- you can always shop for labels that donate some of their proceeds to charity. Unfortunately, you'll just have to take their word for it.

The New York Times reports that American Eagle claims to give $10 of the $19.95 cost of their "Better World" scarf.

But non-profit experts are skeptical.

They point out that such giving is unregulated and, in most cases, unaccountable — and no one knows who, if anyone, is claiming a tax deduction for it.

“It’s virtuousness as a marketing gimmick run amok,” said Lucy Bernholz, founder and president of Blueprint Research and Design, a consulting firm for nonprofit organizations, who has coined the term “embedded giving” to describe the phenomenon. “The potential for it to be a scam is huge.”

In many cases, charities and their corporate partners are unwilling to discuss the specifics of their embedded-giving programs, declining to answer questions about how much is raised and even where exactly the money is going.



Is anyone really surprised? My eyes tend to glaze over whenever I see store promotions involving proceeds going to charity. I'm sure it's not an out-and-out lie but as I said at the beginning of this, I'm sure that there are loopholes.

There is no easy or convenient way to research what that 'organic' label means that you see on the racks. I think the first baby-step is the realization that clothing manufacturing is a huge part of the green movement but we're not as educated about the effects in the same way that we're experts on the carbon emissions of cars, planes, Aqua Net hairspray. No one is going to save the world with their choice of outfits right now but at least we can start to learn how to truly understand labels so that we're not just hemp-wearing sheep.



 

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Comments
Eta

Eta

Portland, OR
November 2005

DEC 14, 2007 07:14 PM

Thanks for this article! To give a little perspective from the other side, I work for a small clothing company and we've been researching ways to make our product more eco-friendly. It's a lot more difficult than I would have expected. Everyone has a different opinion of what, exactly, makes a garment eco-friendly and we can't always verify what the mills tell us about their materials. We have joked that the best thing we could do for the environment is change our business model to convince people not to buy new clothes, but then we'd all be out of a job.

Caislean

Caislean

St. John's, NL
June 2007

DEC 14, 2007 09:10 PM

I think more people, including myself, need to learn how to sew. Making my own clothes out of old stuff would ALSO save me money, and the stress of looking at myself under the harsh lights of a clothing store dressing room. whatever

Mankarlen

Mankarlen

Columbia City, OR
June 2006

DEC 15, 2007 05:03 AM

Lets be really eco friendly all of us go naked therefore no impact, lets not eat anymore therefore no impact, walk use horses therefore no impact. All the things we need to live impact the inviroment in some way. Get real people.

SnowgodCCR

SnowgodCCR

Derry, NH
November 2006

DEC 15, 2007 06:11 AM

I get a bunch of shit from Rawganique.com...it's mostly natural hemps and OCotton. When possible, I try to buy bamboo products if they're a viable alternative to what I need (cutting boards for instance)...I try to do my part, but I didn't realize most of what you said in the article. Hmm.

Mankarlen said:
Lets be really eco friendly all of us go naked therefore no impact, lets not eat anymore therefore no impact, walk use horses therefore no impact. All the things we need to live impact the inviroment in some way. Get real people.



Naked - Sold
Not eating - ehh...or we could just eat more natural foods instead of processed shit food that helps to make us horrifically fat anyway. OMG! Shoot a deer during the season and stick it in your freezer? Absurd!! A community garden? I need to lay off the reefer.
Walk/use horses - good plan, actually. But the tradeoff there is the water and food flow that needs to go into sustaining the horse. Your best bet is to walk, ride a bike, or in cold climates XC ski (bamboo skis, of course). You city folk can use mass transit or just walk to where you need to get to (most of the time, I understand the need for other transportation as well)
How about instead of just resigning yourself to a defeatist attitude of "everything we do sucks anyway", you think of some ways to make it suck less? I ditched my SUV for a Sedan. I have LEDs around the house instead of incandescents. I've got Energy Star applicances. And I avoid driving when it's possible. Not only are all these things good for the environment, but they're GREAT for my checking account. After switching to LED lighting, my electric bill went from about $50 a month to about $25. Less driving means I pay less at the pump. Seriously, get real Mankarien

squerk

squerk

Seattle, WA
December 2004

DEC 15, 2007 07:25 AM

AppleJax said:
I work at a store where we are currenltly selling reusable shopping bags, or you get one for free if you spend over 50$.

I haven't even looked into where/how the bags are made or of what, but it is all hypocritcal to me based on the fact that every bag (and damn near every other item we sell) is individually wrapped in plastic. It seems to defeat the purpose of offering an "eco-friendly" bag. I'm not knocking the bag, it's great! I use and re-use cloth bags for my groceries all the time, but selling something like that and wrapping each and every one in plastic for shipping purposes...just seems to turn around a null the benefit of the bag to me?frown



Hmmmm, me thinks someone works at Trader Joe's. If I am right, I love that store but can't stand how much produce is individually wrapped. I've written several e-mail to their 'contact' section on the website. Maybe if more people do the same they will change this practice. Otherwise, they sell good stuff. smile

squerk

squerk

Seattle, WA
December 2004

DEC 15, 2007 07:28 AM

SleepyLady said:
I just also found out that you can use coffee (not grounds but an actual pot of cold coffee) to stain a table!



Oh yes, you should see all the rings on my kitchen table. Those things will never go away! One even looks like a flower pattern... wink

dreamergirl

dreamergirl

Houston, TX
September 2007

DEC 15, 2007 08:36 AM

SleepyLady said:
I just also found out that you can use coffee (not grounds but an actual pot of cold coffee) to stain a table!




Wait what-tha? Do you have the link to that. I want to try that now.
How cool is this?

smile

SleepyLady

SleepyLady

Los Angeles, CA
October 2007

DEC 15, 2007 11:10 AM

dreamergirl, I don't have a link because I saw it on one of those home makeover on the cheap shows on Home Garden channel or something like that. This woman was just holding a pot of cold coffee, had a brush and said you could stain a (real) wood table.....I'm not sure about the other details...seems like one might be missing but...it's real!

namaste303

namaste303

Orlando, FL
November 2004

DEC 15, 2007 12:50 PM

Hey Sleepy Lady,

I dig some of your points but I'm confused.......... When you were talking about the chemicals in dry cleaning that cause cancer in rats the first thing I thought about was "well, we should be fine as long as we don't eat our clothes" and who are these chemicals dangerous to? The people handeling the chemicals or the people wearing the clothes after they've been treated with the chemicals.I guess these chemicals could seep in through pors in our skin but Just how much exposure to these chemicals is needed to cause cancer? I personally don't dry clean my clothes but I have friends that do quite frequently, how much is too much.

On the back of the little pink Sweet-n-Low packets it says that it has been known to cause cancer in labratory rats. However for a human you'd have to ingest a whole room full of sweet-n-low before you have to worry about anything.

anw1writer

anw1writer

Australia
December 2007

DEC 15, 2007 07:35 PM

Interesting article. I get a lot of my clothes from secondhand stores, so that helps the environment to a small extent.

ANW

IronOrchid

ironorchid

Australia
February 2007

DEC 16, 2007 04:16 AM

Great article. Thanks.

Of course, the other problem is that eco-friendly and fair trade products tend to cost more, and so ethical consumerism becomes a luxury for those in high-ish income brackets. (Of course, the only reason cheap stuff is cheap is because it's mass produced with little thought for working conditions or the environment...)

scribit

scribit

United Kingdom
June 2004

DEC 17, 2007 03:17 AM

the Stereo Sound Agency ahve been producing TRUELY eco fashion for almost a year, i know this becuse it was my designs they put into production,

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