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- FRIDAY DECEMBER 14 2007 12:00 PM
Eco-Friendly Clothing -- Not Quite There Yet.
Submitted by SleepyLady
Edited by erin_broadley
Tags: eco-friendly clothing, organic, dry cleaning

Your clothing choices can impact the environment as much as your carbon emissions but is it possible to shop and dress in a completely green fashion? Clothing that's labeled "eco-friendly" can be just as misleading as packaged food labeled "organic." Most designers and clothing companies are not making it easy to cut through the crap. If you want to shop green, it's really about deciding what area you're most comfortable comprising.
For example Barney's now offers a "Have a Green Holiday Catalog," complete with pillows embroidered with statements like, "Green is Groovy" or "Save the Planet." The catalog promises "fabulously fair-trade fashion," "sensationally sustainable swag" and "orgasmic organic denim and cashmere." (I'm a little disappointed that they couldnt pull off alliteration on that last one.) Nowhere on the catalog does it offer proof or information on how exactly their clothing is fair-trade or organic. It's not that I'm a complete skeptic but I'm sure there are loopholes. The New York Times reports that:
the trend has advanced so quickly that it becomes difficult to evaluate the claims of products that say they are biodegradable, carbon neutral or made from sustainable materials. In recognition of rapidly expanding consumer interest, the Federal Trade Commission said on Monday that it will quickly re-evaluate its guides for green designations in marketing, last updated in 1998, to determine whether they need to be expanded.
The Times also points out that the Barney's catalog carries a ridiculous (my word, not theirs) canvas handbag worth $1,065 (add $310 for a gold, monogrammed recycling symbol.)
The canvas, the catalog says, is 100% recyclable.
There will always be people with money to blow who will find a way to incorporate recycling, Darfur and orphans into fashion trends but for the rest of us who actually might want to be more conscientious about clothing - how do we discern?
People have been wearing hemp even before it was cool. (Will it ever be cool?) But consider what happens to materials like hemp or bamboo before they're turned into a ruffled dress.
Fabrics made from bamboo or hemp, for example, are promoted as having been raised without pesticides and also for growing much faster than cotton. But the downside is that bamboo or hemp fibers are naturally tough and are typically softened before being woven into fabric by using chemical treatments, which cause more pollution.
Soy, you say?
Naturally softer fabrics made from soy have a mild impact compared to cotton, according to environmental groups, but they are less durable, so clothes wear out faster and have to be replaced more often which has an environmental cost of its own.
What about a pretty dress made from organic cotton? That's grown without pesticides!
But organic cotton is not always used in its pure state. The Department of Agricultures standards do not regulate textile production once cotton has been harvested, so as a fabric it may be chemically treated, or printed with toxic dyes, and still be labeled as organic.
Another stumbling block to being completely eco-friendly is that even clothes made from recycled plastics are usually gathered in the U.S., shipped to Japan to process, made in China and then sent back to the U.S. for distribution.
Oh! Foiled again! What's a tree-hugger to do?
You can head to Good Will or look for clothing lines that make trendy outfits out of leftover scraps or vintage clothes. And the ultimate sustainable act is repurposing what you already own. If you don't have a backyard, get a wooden clothing rack and let your stuff air dry to save energy. (There's nothing like a crisp, stiff, air-dried pair of jeans on a cold winter morning!)
The dry cleaning industry has made huge strides in eco-friendly practice. You dont have to smell like a chemical plant when you wear your power suits anymore. Dry cleaners do not have to use "perc."
The EPA has classified perc (Perchloroethylene) - the solvent most commonly used in traditional dry cleaning - as a groundwater contaminant and a potential human health hazard.
Lots of dry cleaners have switched to "Green Earth" dry cleaning.
GreenEarth method uses a silicone-based solvent that breaks down into sand, water and carbon dioxide without that telltale chemical odor.
Just in case you were heading out the door with your fine linens to find your neighborhood eco-friendly dry cleaner, hang on. NPR reported:
preliminary studies suggest D-5, the silicone-based solvent used in the process, causes cancer in rats and may also be toxic to the liver. NPR's Allison Aubrey reports.
To confuse you even more The Silicones Environmental Health and Safety Council issued a statement arguing that D5 is safe for "its intended uses, including dry cleaning."
Now, if you want to be a do-gooder but dont have environmentally friendly stores in your area and you're forced to live like a mall rat amongst The Gap, Old Navy and the like -- you can always shop for labels that donate some of their proceeds to charity. Unfortunately, you'll just have to take their word for it.
The New York Times reports that American Eagle claims to give $10 of the $19.95 cost of their "Better World" scarf.
But non-profit experts are skeptical.
They point out that such giving is unregulated and, in most cases, unaccountable and no one knows who, if anyone, is claiming a tax deduction for it.
Its virtuousness as a marketing gimmick run amok, said Lucy Bernholz, founder and president of Blueprint Research and Design, a consulting firm for nonprofit organizations, who has coined the term embedded giving to describe the phenomenon. The potential for it to be a scam is huge.
In many cases, charities and their corporate partners are unwilling to discuss the specifics of their embedded-giving programs, declining to answer questions about how much is raised and even where exactly the money is going.
Is anyone really surprised? My eyes tend to glaze over whenever I see store promotions involving proceeds going to charity. I'm sure it's not an out-and-out lie but as I said at the beginning of this, I'm sure that there are loopholes.
There is no easy or convenient way to research what that 'organic' label means that you see on the racks. I think the first baby-step is the realization that clothing manufacturing is a huge part of the green movement but we're not as educated about the effects in the same way that we're experts on the carbon emissions of cars, planes, Aqua Net hairspray. No one is going to save the world with their choice of outfits right now but at least we can start to learn how to truly understand labels so that we're not just hemp-wearing sheep.




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